Dunedin

Officially halfway through our trek through New Zealand! This is such a lovely country with lots to offer the traveler. Roundabouts on all major (and minor) routes eliminate necessary stops, antics of newly born lambs jumping and cavorting at every turn entertain the road weary, vistas that rival the best in the world begging to be photographed. Dunedin is a medium sized city with a Scottish influence. Set smack dab on the Otago Harbour, it is buffeted by two seas separated by fingers of land with high ridges which offer the best views of the city, day or night.

We walked through Larnach Castle and were saddened by its history (the original owner spent 12 years having just the ceilings completed) of the financial ruin of William Larnach, his marital difficulties and subsequent suicide. The castle languished when he died, as there were settlements to be made which kept the estate from any of his surviving children. It became a ruin, a shell, with, at one point, roofs collapsing and animals and local children playing inside. Enter a new owner committed to bringing it back, buying the house in 1967 and restoring it and the lovely gardens to what they are today. She also purchased the house adjoining, completely renovating it into an upscale boutique hotel, the Camp Estate, which is where we are staying.

Tonight, the wind is blowing furiously outside our windows, and the fireplace here in the room is most appreciated. We are worried about our intended jaunt to Stewart Island tomorrow, and our trek through the southern most bird sanctuary in the world. I do hope the weather clears. The storms which are raging come up from the Antarctic, so they are cold and rugged.

We did visit the yellow eyed penguins today, what a treat! They are the most endangered in the world as they do not tame and do not survive in captivity. Larger than the blue penguin but smaller than the Emperors, they are somewhat antisocial. The area around the Otaga peninsula is stunning and the nesting grounds are quite the spa for these birds. The owners of the sanctuary are trying to help increase their numbers.

All for now. Stewart Island, Queenstown coming up next.